We’re on the train from Naples to Rome, our final leg of the honeymoon. As I’ve said with each post while in Italy, I plan to write some longer posts later, but for now I’ll give a quick shout-out to Positano.
It was gorgeous, and charming, and it damned near killed me.
Positano is on the Amalfi Coast of Italy, and though I’d seen photos of the stunning views from the town, there was one thing that I never really grasped: the town is quite literally on a cliff, which means two things: lots of steep steps, and lots of terror-inducing drops from the road into the sea. (When you consider that I am terribly out of shape, and quite uncomfortable with heights, this is a bad combination.)
Setting aside those two factors for a moment, our three nights in Positano were phenomenal. The “country house” (like a bed and breakfast) where we stayed was beautiful, and the family who runs the place is a delight. The mother made breakfast for us every morning, with lots of pastries and cakes and marmalades, and so on. One brother handled all of the logistics (reservations, payments, helping us with transportation, etc.) while the other was our captain during a private boat tour around the coast. We really enjoyed staying there, and if I can get past the heart-attack-inducing steps, I would definitely stay here again.
The town itself largely caters to tourists, so there are lots of little shops (especially linen and ceramics), and lots of restaurants and cafes. We found ourselves regulars at one cafe in particular, and made fast friends with the staff there. (Indeed, some of the other American tourists came to know us by name and would chat with us each night as they walked past.) As many of you know, I’m a sucker for a restaurant/bar that welcomes you warmly, knows your name, and remembers your favorite drink, and this place beautifully fit the bill.
The beaches boasted stunning views of the coastal town, but they were very rocky and small (unlike, say, beaches along the Florida coast that span for hundreds of miles). I was a bit irked at paying for beach chairs and umbrellas — the only real option, as there’s no sandy area to simply lay out a towel for free — but it proved to be worth it when the servers came ’round to take drink orders.
The beautiful views and charming people definitely were the best parts of Positano. It was a great visit, and something Sal had been particularly excited about, so I was very happy to take him there… no regrets about doing it, and I definitely recommend it to others, but I’m not sure that I’d go again except under very specific circumstances. More on that later, but for now: thank you, Positano, for a lovely stay.